The Science Behind the Serum

May 4, 2021 | Written by Kathy Watson

It took us 20 years to find the ingredients used in our Activating Serum. All of our ingredients are included in our formulation for a reason — each have properties which lend themselves to superior scalp health, follicle function, and growth promotion.

Here’s the science behind two powerful ingredients found in your bottle.

For more information about all of our ingredients, please visit


TrichogenTM is a powerful compound of select ingredients used in Traditional Chinese Medicine, that are combined with amino acids and vitamins to give the natural hair cycle the nutrients needed to regain a healthy state (measured by the ratio between anagen «alive» versus telogen «resting» hair bulbs).

TrichogenTM has been specifically developed to help people suffering from abnormal hair loss to recover a normal rate of hair loss, as well as stimulate a healthy scalp and promote growth.

Active Ingredients
  • Sulfopeptides of soy (Glycine max): regulators of cell nutrition and growth, supply of bio-available sulfur, stimulation of protein biosynthesis.
  • Amino-acids: derivatives of tyrosine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline – precursors of proteins and pigments.
  • Aminosaccharide: glucosamine – GAG precursor for strengthening the extracellular papillary/peribulbar matrix.
  • Vitamins of the B group (PP, B5 and Biotin): regulation of cellular nutrition and lipogenesis, and fight against any deficiency in B vitamins and oligo-elements.
  • Zinc salt: regulation of sebum production.
  • Panax ginseng and Arctium majus (burdock) extracts: toning (local microcirculation) and antimicrobial effects.
Hair and Scalp Benefits
  • Decrease of hair loss and stimulation of hair growth, stimulation of metabolism, improvement of cellular oxygenation and skin/scalp microcirculation.
  • Improvement of scalp condition, balance of sebum secretion, decrease of dandruff and itching sensations. The scalp is healthier.
  • Improvement of hair aspect and sensorial hair qualities, decrease of oily look, conditioning, repairing, improvement of the dry, dull look, increase of suppleness and easier combing.

Clinical Studies


To demonstrate the anti-hair loss activity and the improvement of the hair appearance and sensorial qualities of a hair solution containing TrichogenTM.


After 8 and 16 weeks of treatment, the trial tested:

  • Intensity of hair loss in 3 usual situations (combing, shampoo, on the pillow)
  • Efficacy of the hair solution on the appearance and sensorial qualities of hair and scalp, in addition to sensorial evaluation
  • Scalp condition
  • Hair regrowth

A treatment for 16 weeks with a hair solution containing TrichogenTM produced the following results:

  • Improvement of the appearance and sensorial qualities scalp and hair
  • Decrease of hair loss
  • Increase in the speed of hair growth
  • Significantly decreased hair loss; on average, on the 3 tested areas of the scalp, the A/T ratio has increased by more than 100% and has moved from 3.47 (alopecia) up to 7.4 (normalization)
  • Revitalized hair in the parietal area by strengthening significantly the A/T ratio within the area where the loss usually is gentler
  • Gradually reversed the dramatic process of hair loss within the frontal area; there, the A/T ratio has increased by more than 100%

Figure 1
Sensorial appraisal after 8 and 16 weeks of treatment: anti-hair loss activity, appearance and sensorial qualities of hair and scalp.

Figure 2
Visualization by phototrichogram, of the regrowth effect on 1 volunteer, after 16 weeks of treatment.

A: visualization of a scalp area before treatment.
B: same area after 16 weeks of treatment: new hair comes out compared to before treatment each one in anagen phase

Other Results

TrichogenTM has been tested via multiple complementary pathways:

  • Stimulation of oxygen consumption (epithelial cells). TrichogenTM clearly improves cell vitality. A significant and dose-dependent increase of oxygen consumption by epithelial cells has been demonstrated, representative of an increase in cell metabolism/vitality.
  • Substantivity effect on hair tress (fluorescamine reaction).The substantivity of TrichogenTM in a hair solution has been demonstrated by the adsorption of 7 mg of TrichogenTM per g of normal hair and 16.6 mg of TrichogenTM per g of damaged hair.
  • Conditioning and repairing on dry hair (SEM: scanning electron microscopy).TrichogenTM in a hair solution has clearly improved the surface of hair, and has shown a good hair conditioning / repairing effect.(See Figure 4)

  • Photo-protection on hair tress (dansyl chloride test).The intensity of the fluorescence is a measure of hair damage.The treatment with the hair solution containing TrichogenTM protects hair against UVB induced damage.The protecting effect of the hair solution containing TrichogenTM was demonstrated by an increase of the fluorescence intensity by 28.8%.
  • Strengthening on hair (traction test).The strengthening activity of TrichogenTM in a hair solution on damaged hair is clearly demonstrated by the significant increase of hair mechanical parameters linked to the hair strength.


HotFlux® is compound commonly known as Vanillyl Butyl Ether. Hotflux is used in hair solutions to produce a warming sensation that nourishes and protects the scalp to promote stronger hair.

Active Ingredients

HotFlux® is a compound made of capsaicin and nonivamide.

Hair and Scalp Benefits
  • Enhance microcirculation: More nutrients delivered to the hair follicles so they can grow faster.
  • Promote growth: Up-regulate hair growth factors such as IGF-1, VEGF and bFGF.
  • Modulates DHT: Inhibits 5-α reductase activity.
  • Anti-inflammatory on hair follicles: Reduce inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and IL-8.
  • Anti-pollution on hair follicles: Relieve scalp inflammation caused by air pollution.
  • CGRP (Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide), the peptide responsible for increasing vasodilation in the follicle, can increase significantly when HotFlux® is part of the hair solution. In other words, HotFlux® can enhance local blood cell flow to follicles.

Figure 4 – Enhanced Micro-circulation

  • Growth factors (IGF-1, VEGF and bFGF) significantly improve when HotFlux® is part of the hair solution.

Figure 5 – Improvement of growth factors

  • HotFlux® presents an inhibitory effect on 5-a reductase activity with a clear decrease in Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) ratio — the hormone that causes the miniaturization of hair follicles, and contributes significantly to hair loss in both women and men.
  • HotFlux® can reduce inflammatory cytokines of IL-6 and IL-8 levels in hair follicle cell.

Figure 6 – Reduction of inflammatory cytokines

  • HotFlux® shows great ability on ROS inhibition induced by air pollutants, which inhibit hair growth and impact scalp health.

Figure 7 – Pollutant impact on follicles

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